Watercolour of a stainless steel Rolex Explorer II with a white («Polar») dial, black-outlined hands and hour markers, a red arrow-tipped 24-hour hand, a fixed brushed steel bezel with a 24-hour scale of plain strokes, a blank date window under the Cyclops lens and an Oyster bracelet
Illustration: our own watercolour, after a photograph of a GMT-Master II ref. 116710BLNR by gabihil (public domain), painted as the Explorer II 16570.

Rolex · Ref. 16570 · catalogued from 28 sources

Explorer II

The 16570 has a 24-hour hand so that someone deep in a cave can tell midday from midnight. Most of its owners have a window for that.

The Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570 is the steel Explorer II that Rolex made from 1989 to 20111,2,3,5,6: a 40 mm Oyster case, water-resistant to 100 metres, with a fixed steel bezel engraved with a 24-hour scale, a sapphire crystal with a Cyclops lens over the date, and a white («Polar») or black dial1,2,3,5. Its calibre 3185, later 3186, lets the hour hand be set on its own, so the 24-hour hand can show a second time zone1,3,8. It was replaced in 2011 by the 42 mm 2165701,2,11. Rolex no longer makes it, so there is no current list price. The last figure for it in a US-dollar retail price table that began as a Rolex dealer's handout, not a Rolex document, is USD 6,325 in September 201012. Pre-owned, Bob's Watches reports a median sale price of about USD 9,600 for its own sales from July 2025 to July 202613.

The steel Explorer II for 22 years: 1989 to 2011, 40 mm, 100 metres, a fixed 24-hour bezel, calibre 3185 and then 3186, with a white «Polar» or a black dial1,2,3,6.

It changed quietly during the run: tritium gave way to Luminova and Super-LumiNova, hollow end links to solid ones, the lug holes went around 2003 and the rehaut was engraved from the mid-2000s1,2,3,4. A 16570 should match its own decade.

On Chrono24's first page, the median asking price rose about 2.9 per cent in the year to October 2025 when retailer-signed and provenance watches are left out, and 2.5 per cent counting every listing. Over 21 months from January 2024 it fell 7.2 per cent on both counts14,15,16. Asking prices are not sale prices.

The particulars

Reference
16570, Explorer II1,2
Case
Oyster, 40 mm, about 12 mm thick, about 47 mm lug to lug, screw-down plain case back, crown guards1,3,4
Material
904L stainless steel1,5
Bezel
Fixed, steel, engraved with a 24-hour scale2,3,6
Crystal
Sapphire, with a Cyclops lens over the date2,3,5
Crown
Twinlock, screw-down2,3
Water resistance
100 metres (330 feet)1,2,3,5
Dial
White («Polar») with black-outlined markers and hands, or black; date at three o'clock; red 24-hour hand with an arrow tip (one specification list says orange)1,2,3,7
Movement
Calibre 3185, later 3186, in-house, self-winding, chronometer, with an independently set hour hand1,3,8
Frequency
28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), 31 jewels3,4,8
Power reserve
About 48 to 50 hours1,3,4
Luminous material
Tritium until between about 1995 and 1999, depending on the source, then Luminova and Super-LumiNova1,2,3,4,9,10
Bracelet
Brushed steel Oyster; hollow end links until about 2000, solid end links after1,3
Produced
1989 to 20111,2,3,5,6

Is it genuine?

Rolex's own advice. Asked how to spot a fake, Rolex's FAQ gives no tips. Its answer is to buy from a jeweller in Rolex's own retail network24. The checks below are the minimum, and none of them proves a watch is genuine: the best counterfeits pass one or two of them27.

The numbers between the lugs. Remove the bracelet. The serial number is engraved between the lugs at six o'clock and the reference number at twelve26,28. Genuine engravings are deep and crisp; fakes are often acid-etched, with a sandy look26,27,28.

The rehaut. On earlier 16570s the ring between dial and crystal is plain. Later ones have ROLEX engraved around it; sources date the change between 2005 and 20071,2,5, and Rolex moved the serial number to the rehaut from the mid-2000s27. An engraved rehaut on a watch with tritium lume and lug holes would be an odd combination, worth asking about.

The crown in the crystal. Rolex has laser-etched a tiny crown into the crystal at six o'clock on most models since about 200226,27. A 1990s 16570 left the factory without one, so its absence is no warning sign; a replacement crystal fitted at a later service may have it.

The dial signature. The text below six o'clock dates the dial: «SWISS - T<25» for tritium, then «SWISS» for a short period between about 1998 and 2001, then «SWISS MADE»1,4. A dial clearly from one decade in a case from another usually means a replaced part; refinished dials and mismatched parts are common on older Explorer IIs6.

The Polar surrounds. On a white 16570 the hour markers and hands are outlined in black1,3,7. White gold surrounds point to a 16550 (see the FAQ), so metal surrounds on a 16570 deserve a question.

The bezel and the 24-hour hand. The bezel is fixed steel with an engraved 24-hour scale, so it should not turn2,3. Do not judge the 24-hour hand by its colour: most sources call it red, but Bob's Watches' specification list says orange and WatchGuys says either2,3,6. Judge its shape: a thin arrow on the 16570, a broad orange hand on the 2165702,3,4,9.

The Cyclops lens. It should magnify the date about 2.5 times, so the numeral nearly fills the window, and sit centred over it. A small or distorted date under the lens is a classic counterfeit flaw26,27,28.

The case back. Plain, solid and screwed down, without engravings or a display window3,26,27. Rolex dropped the hologram sticker it used before 2007 because counterfeiters copied it, so a sticker proves nothing either way26,27.

Bracelet and clasp. The bracelet should match the watch's era (see «How to date a 16570»): hollow end links before about 2000, and a clasp with a safety catch from about 1997 by Luxury Bazaar's dating, 1998–99 by Teddy Baldassarre's1,4. Loose, rattling links or a rough clasp are warning signs27,28.

The Explorer II is the Rolex with a job description written for caves. Rolex presented it in 1971 for polar explorers and speleologists, people who cannot tell night from day by looking up21,22. Ref. 16570 is its third generation and by far the longest-running, from 1989 to 20111,2,3.

It is also the last Explorer II at 40 mm, before the line grew to 421,2.

How the Explorer II got here

The first Explorer II, ref. 1655, arrived in 197121,23 with a fixed bezel engraved with 24 hours and a large 24-hour hand, orange on the first watches and red on later ones3,23. It was not a second-time-zone watch: the 24-hour hand was tied to the hour hand, so it worked as a day-and-night indicator1,3,23.

In 1985 ref. 16550 changed that. Its calibre 3085 let the 24-hour hand be set independently, and it brought the first white dial3,6,7,23. Some of those white dials were painted with a paint that aged to cream, and the 16550's markers had white gold surrounds1,7,9.

The 16570 followed in 19891,2,3,5. From the outside it changed little3. Inside, calibre 3185 replaced the 3085, and on the white dial the markers and hands were now outlined in black1,3,4,7.

Twenty-two years of small changes

Rolex did not mark model years, so the changes crept in. The lume went first. Early dials used tritium, marked «SWISS - T<25» below six o'clock; Luminova replaced it in the second half of the 1990s, and Super-LumiNova followed1,2,4,9. For a short period the dial said only «SWISS», then «SWISS MADE»1,4.

The bracelet changed in two steps. Luxury Bazaar lists the 78360 without a safety catch, the 78790 with one from 1997 and the 78790A with solid end links from 20001; Monochrome confirms the move to solid end links, and Teddy Baldassarre dates the flip-lock clasp to 1998–993,4.

The lug holes, drilled through the lugs for the spring bars, disappeared around 2003 to 20041,4,6. Luxury Bazaar calls the hole-free watches 16570T1. Then the rehaut was engraved with ROLEX, dated by sources from 2005 to 20071,2,5, and calibre 3186 replaced the 3185, somewhere between 2005 and 20071,2,3,9.

Inside: calibre 3185 and 3186

Calibre 3185 is built on calibre 3135, with an added 24-hour hand8. It has 31 jewels, runs at 28,800 vibrations an hour and holds about 48 to 50 hours of power reserve, depending on the source1,3,4,8. The local hour hand can be set in one-hour steps, so the red hand can serve as a day-and-night indicator or show a second time zone3,8.

The 3186 kept the design and added a Parachrom hairspring, which the sources credit with better resistance to shocks and magnetism1,4,9. On the 3185, the 24-hour hand wobbles slightly when you set it; on the 3186 the wobble is largely gone1,4,9. Luxury Bazaar's rule of thumb: a plain rehaut means a 3185, an engraved one almost always a 3186, though some early engraved watches still have the 31851.

Polar or black

Both dials are ref. 16570, and both were made through the whole run1,3. Collectors call the white one «Polar»; the black one never got a nickname1.

Dealers agree that the Polar costs more. Bob's Watches puts the pre-owned starting point at about USD 9,500 for white and USD 8,500 for black, and WatchGuys says the white dial carries a slight premium2,6. Chrono24's asking prices mostly agree. Across seven archived copies from January 2024 to October 2025, listings titled Polar or white asked the higher median five times: by under 1 per cent in July 2024, and by 6 to 14 per cent in all four copies from 2025. Black asked slightly more twice, by 2.1 per cent in January 2024 and 1.3 per cent in October 202414,15,16,17,18,19,20. Many listings name no dial colour, so each median rests on only 9 to 23 listings.

A few white dials are collected on their own, such as early «porcelain» dials and dials that aged to cream, but the names rest mainly on one dealer's guide, and sellers stretch them1,7.

What came after

In 2011, the Explorer II's fortieth year, the 216570 replaced the 165701,2,3. Rolex says the watch was restyled that year with a case grown to 42 mm11. It had larger markers and hands, a broader orange 24-hour hand as a tribute to the first 1655s, calibre 3187 and Chromalight lume2,3,7.

In 2021 the 226570 kept 42 mm and moved to calibre 3285, with about 70 hours of power reserve6,7,11.

What it cost, and what it costs

Rolex publishes no historic price list for the 16570, and rolex.com no longer shows it. The best record we found is a US-dollar retail price table that began as a handout a Rolex dealer gave the site's author in 2005 and was later extended by its publisher, Minus4Plus612. Its Explorer II line shows USD 2,750 in September 1992 and USD 6,325 in September 2010, the last figure before the 216570, a rise of 130 per cent in eighteen years12. It is not a Rolex document, and the line names the 1655 and 16570 together, so which generation each year belongs to is our reading of the production years.

Pre-owned, we can measure asking prices. Chrono24 blocks direct reading, so we used archived copies of its 16570 page; the latest is from October 2025, so the figures are a year old. We leave out three listings titled as retailer-signed or as having been on top of Mount Everest, asking USD 57,260 to USD 80,000 in 202415,17. No listing was titled as another reference or as a modified watch.

On that basis, the median asking price on the first page went from USD 7,894.5 in October 2024 to USD 8,123 in October 2025, about 2.9 per cent; counting every listing, it rose 2.5 per cent15,16. The longer window tells a different story: from USD 8,757 in January 2024 it fell to USD 7,395 in January 2025 and recovered only part of the way, down 7.2 per cent over 21 months14,16,18. Asking prices are not sale prices. For sale prices, Bob's Watches reports a median of about USD 9,600 for the 16570 across its own sales from July 2025 to July 2026, up about 10 per cent from the first half of that period to the second13. That is one dealer's sales, not the market.

Buying one pre-owned

A 16570 is at least fifteen years old, so you are buying its history as much as the watch. WatchGuys' list is sensible: matching serial and reference numbers, a dial, hands, bezel and bracelet from the right period, and case edges that have not been polished round. Check the bracelet for stretch, too; WatchGuys says a heavily stretched one can cost over USD 1,000 to replace6. Ask when the watch was last serviced and by whom; WatchGuys puts a Rolex service at USD 800 to 1,200 or more6. Rolex's site also lists Rolex Certified Pre-Owned24; we found no source saying it includes the 16570.

Bob's Watches says older tritium examples generally fetch more than later Super-LumiNova ones2, and Monochrome notes that the bezel's thin polished edge is fragile3.

Nobody can tell you how many 16570s exist: we found no figure from Rolex or anyone else for the reference.

The dubious part

Rolex built the Explorer II for people who spend days at a time in the dark. Most 16570s spend the week in a drawer, which is close enough.

The Explorer II, generation by generation
ReferenceYearsCalibreWhat changed
16551971–c. 1984/851,6,251575Fixed 24-hour bezel, large 24-hour hand tied to the hour hand1,3,23
165501985–19893,6,73085Independent 24-hour hand, first white dial3,6,23
165701989–20111,2,3,53185, then 3186Black-outlined markers on the white dial, 904L steel1,3,5
2165702011–20213,5,6318742 mm, larger markers, orange 24-hour hand, Chromalight lume2,3,7
2265702021–present5,63285Reworked 42 mm case, about 70 hours of reserve3,6,7

Years marked c. differ between sources; see «Where the sources disagree» below.

How to date a 16570 by its details
DetailEarlier watchesLater watches
Lume and dial textTritium, «SWISS - T<25», until the second half of the 1990s; sources say 1995 to 19991,2,3,4,9Luminova, then Super-LumiNova; «SWISS», then «SWISS MADE»1,2,4
End linksHollow1,3Solid, from about 20001,3
Lug holesDrilled through1,4,9None, from about 2003 to 20041,4,6
RehautPlain1Engraved ROLEX, from 2005 to 20071,2,5
Calibre31851,2,33186, from between 2005 and 20071,2,9
Crown in the crystalNone26,27On watches from about 200226,27

Rolex did not mark model years, so each change is approximate and some watches mix features from both columns.

Retail price of the steel Explorer II, US dollars
DatePriceGeneration
February 1988USD 1,7501216550; the table's line names only the 1655 and 16570
February 1989USD 2,4001216550 or 16570; the 16570 arrived that year
September 1992USD 2,7501216570
September 1996USD 3,2751216570
February 2005USD 4,4501216570
October 2006USD 5,0001216570
March 2008USD 5,7501216570
September 2010USD 6,3251216570; the 216570 follows in the table from May 2011

From Minus4Plus6's US-dollar retail table, which began as a Rolex dealer's handout in 2005 (archived copy, November 2024); prices after February 2005 are the publisher's own additions, with no stated source. Not a Rolex document. The line reads «1655/16570», so the generation column is our reading of the production years.

Chrono24 median asking price for the 16570, US dollarsMedian, excluding retailer-signed and provenance watchesMedian, all first-page listings
7,0007,5008,0008,5009,000Apr 2024Jul 2024Oct 2024Jan 2025Apr 2025Jul 2025Oct 202516570 8,123All 8,123

Our median of the 59 to 61 listings on the first page of Chrono24's 16570 page in archived copies (Internet Archive); with an even number, the median is the mean of the two middle prices. One rule for all seven copies leaves out titles naming another Explorer II or GMT reference, or saying Comex, iced out, diamonds, PVD, DLC, custom, aftermarket, a retailer's signature or Everest. Only three listings matched (0, 1, 2, 0, 0, 0 and 0), asking USD 57,260 to USD 80,000; in July 2024 the single exclusion does not move the median. The filter reads titles only. Points are the dates we could observe prices, not the dates prices changed. Asking prices are not sale prices. The latest archived copy is from October 2025.

The numbers behind the chart
SeriesObservedPrice
Median, excluding retailer-signed and provenance watches23 Jan 2024USD 8,75714
Median, excluding retailer-signed and provenance watches14 Jul 2024USD 7,99517
Median, excluding retailer-signed and provenance watches8 Oct 2024USD 7,89415
Median, excluding retailer-signed and provenance watches16 Jan 2025USD 7,39518
Median, excluding retailer-signed and provenance watches17 Apr 2025USD 7,64819
Median, excluding retailer-signed and provenance watches9 Jul 2025USD 7,99720
Median, excluding retailer-signed and provenance watches14 Oct 2025USD 8,12316
Median, all first-page listings23 Jan 2024USD 8,75714
Median, all first-page listings14 Jul 2024USD 7,99517
Median, all first-page listings8 Oct 2024USD 7,92415
Median, all first-page listings16 Jan 2025USD 7,39518
Median, all first-page listings17 Apr 2025USD 7,64819
Median, all first-page listings9 Jul 2025USD 7,99720
Median, all first-page listings14 Oct 2025USD 8,12316

Questions people ask

When was the Rolex 16570 made?
From 1989 to 2011, by most sources1,2,3,5,6. Teddy Baldassarre says production ran through 20104.
Is the Rolex 16570 still in production?
No. Rolex replaced it in 2011 with the 216570, which grew to 42 mm1,2,11. The current Explorer II is the 226570 of 20216,7.
Is the white «Polar» dial a different reference?
No. White and black dials are both ref. 16570 and were made through the whole run1,3. Dealers price the white one higher2,6, and Chrono24's asking prices mostly agree: white asked more in five of seven archived copies, by 6 to 14 per cent in 2025, and black slightly more in two copies from 202414,15,16,17,18,19,20.
Is the 16570 a GMT watch?
Yes, in practice. Its hour hand can be set on its own in one-hour steps, so the 24-hour hand can show a second time zone against the fixed bezel3,8,11.
What is the difference between the 3185 and the 3186?
The 3186 added a blue Parachrom hairspring and largely removed a slight wobble of the 24-hour hand when setting it1,4,9. The switch came between 2005 and 2007, depending on the source1,2,3.
How do I tell a 16570 from a 16550?
On a white dial, white gold surrounds mean a 16550; black surrounds usually mean a 16570, though some late 16550s had them too1,2. The 16550 has calibre 3085, the 16570 the 3185 or 31863,6.
What did a Rolex 16570 cost new?
In a US-dollar retail table that began as a Rolex dealer's handout: USD 2,750 in September 1992, USD 4,450 in February 2005 and USD 6,325 in September 201012. It is not a Rolex document.
Does the 16570 hold its value?
It depends on the window. On Chrono24's first page the median asking price rose about 2.9 per cent in the year to October 2025, but fell 7.2 per cent over 21 months from January 202414,15,16. Bob's Watches reports a median sale price of about USD 9,600 from July 2025 to July 202613. Asking prices are not sale prices.
What does 16570T mean?
It is the name Luxury Bazaar gives the later 16570s without lug holes, made from about 20031. None of the other sources we read uses it, so treat it as a dealer's label.

Should you buy one? If you want a steel Rolex sports watch that nobody at the next table will ask about, yes. Choose the dial you like, not the one the internet says is worth more, and make sure the dial and the case come from the same decade.

The house rules · every fact sourced, every disagreement shown

Where the sources disagree

When the 16570 ended. Luxury Bazaar, Bob's Watches, Monochrome, WatchGuys, Analog Shift and Gray & Sons say 2011. Teddy Baldassarre says production ran through 2010. We use 20111,2,3,4,5,6,9.

The first sapphire crystal. Luxury Bazaar calls the 16570 the first Explorer II with a sapphire crystal and gives the 16550 an acrylic one. Monochrome, WatchGuys and Gray & Sons say the 16550 already had sapphire. We say only that the 16570 has one1,3,5,6.

When the 3186 arrived. Bob's Watches says 2005, Analog Shift «prior to 2005» for the 3185, Monochrome «circa 2005» and Caliber Corner «circa 2005-2006» for the calibre in general. Luxury Bazaar says 2007. We write 2005 to 20071,2,3,8,9.

The change of lume. Monochrome puts the end of tritium at 1996–97. Teddy Baldassarre says about 1995 in one place and about 1997 in another, with «Swiss»-only Luminova dials in 1998 and 1999 and «Swiss Made» from 1999. Bob's Watches and Analog Shift say Luminova from 1998. Luxury Bazaar says tritium went in 1999, straight to Super-LumiNova, with «Swiss»-only dials until 20011,2,3,4,9.

When the rehaut was engraved. Luxury Bazaar says 2005. Bob's Watches says 2006/2007. Gray & Sons says mid-2000s. We write 2005 to 20071,2,5.

Case size and power reserve. Analog Shift says the 16570 kept a 39 mm case; every other source we read says 40 mm. For power reserve, Teddy Baldassarre gives the 3185 48 hours and the 3186 50, Monochrome gives the 3185 50, and Luxury Bazaar writes 48 to 501,3,4,6,9.

The colour of the 24-hour hand. Monochrome, Teddy Baldassarre and Bob's Watches' text and Polar guide call the 16570's hand red; Bob's own specification list says orange, and WatchGuys says orange or red depending on the generation. We use red, but we do not treat the colour as a check on a watch2,3,4,6,7.

The last retail price. The Minus4Plus6 table's last figure for the line is USD 6,325 in September 2010. Bob's Watches says USD 6,300 in 2011. Neither is a Rolex document2,12.

Sources

  1. Luxury Bazaar (Grey Market Magazine): Collector's Guide to the Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570 (read 2026-10-16)
  2. Bob's Watches: Rolex 16570 (read 2026-10-16)
  3. Monochrome Watches: Collector's Corner - The Rolex Explorer II Polar Dial Ref. 16570 (read 2026-10-16)
  4. Teddy Baldassarre: Rolex Explorer II 16570: The Best Value Rolex GMT (read 2026-10-16)
  5. Gray & Sons: History & Evolution Rolex Explorer II (read 2026-10-16)
  6. WatchGuys: Rolex Explorer II Buyer's Guide: History, Prices & Refs (read 2026-10-16)
  7. Bob's Watches: Rolex Polar Explorer II Ultimate Buying Guide (read 2026-10-16)
  8. Caliber Corner: Rolex Caliber 3185 Watch Movement (read 2026-10-16)
  9. Analog Shift: A Brief Guide to the Rolex Explorer II 'Polar' (read 2026-10-16)
  10. Bob's Watches: The Evolution Behind Rolex Luminous Material (read 2026-10-14)
  11. Rolex: The Rolex Explorer II Models | Newsroom (Wayback 2026-01-04) (read 2026-10-16)
  12. Minus4Plus6: Rolex Price Evolution (US retail price table) (read 2026-10-14)
  13. Bob's Watches: Best Rolex Investments in 2026: Ranked by Our Sales Data (read 2026-10-16)
  14. Chrono24, via the Internet Archive: Chrono24: Rolex 16570 (side 1, USD), Wayback 2024-01-23 (read 2026-10-16)
  15. Chrono24, via the Internet Archive: Chrono24: Rolex 16570 (side 1, USD), Wayback 2024-10-08 (read 2026-10-16)
  16. Chrono24, via the Internet Archive: Chrono24: Rolex 16570 (side 1, USD), Wayback 2025-10-14 (read 2026-10-16)
  17. Chrono24, via the Internet Archive: Chrono24: Rolex 16570 (side 1, USD), Wayback 2024-07-14 (read 2026-10-16)
  18. Chrono24, via the Internet Archive: Chrono24: Rolex 16570 (side 1, USD), Wayback 2025-01-16 (read 2026-10-16)
  19. Chrono24, via the Internet Archive: Chrono24: Rolex 16570 (side 1, USD), Wayback 2025-04-17 (read 2026-10-16)
  20. Chrono24, via the Internet Archive: Chrono24: Rolex 16570 (side 1, USD), Wayback 2025-07-09 (read 2026-10-16)
  21. Rolex: Rolex History - 1971-1992 (Wayback 2025-12-23) (read 2026-10-16)
  22. Rolex: Rolex Explorer II - Pierce the darkness (Wayback 2026-06-21) (read 2026-10-16)
  23. Wikipedia: Rolex Explorer II (read 2026-10-16)
  24. Rolex: Watch care and service – FAQ (read 2026-10-14)
  25. Bob's Watches: Rolex Explorer II Review: History, Models, and Buying Guide (read 2026-10-16)
  26. 1stDibs: How to Spot a Fake Rolex: 13+ Expert Tips (read 2026-10-14)
  27. Bob's Watches: How to Spot a Fake Rolex: The Official Guide (read 2026-10-14)
  28. SwissWatchExpo: How to Spot a Fake Rolex (Updated 2026) (read 2026-10-14)
Ref. 16550

Explorer II, the predecessor

1985 to 1989. Independent 24-hour hand, the first white dial, calibre 3085.

Ref. 216570

Explorer II, the successor

2011 to 2021. 42 mm, orange 24-hour hand, calibre 3187.

Ref. 226570

Explorer II, the current one

2021 to the present. 42 mm, calibre 3285, about 70 hours.